Honda 1300 vtx starter cranks but will not start?

It can be battery problem.Recheck battery to starter connections.It can be low fuel pressure problem.Check the fuel pressure if its low, then fuel pump and fuel filter are to be replaced.-------
If fuel pressure checked ok, then it can be the clutch issue.--- The starter clutch issue:----

The Starter is engaged all the time,, it goes thru a torque limiter, a starter idle gear, to the starter driven gear which turns the Flywheel (and engine) thru a 1 way clutch. (I have a picture later showing this)

So lets get started with the disassembly

Your gonna be working on the Left side of the bike

First thing you do is drain the oil, while the oil is draining you need to remove the Plasti-Chrome cover that covers the shift linkage and transmission

Once that cover is off you will need to remove the shift-linkage so that it is out of the way. I recommend marking the spline shaft end and your linkage with a line so when you reinstall you can get your shifter back to the same position

(You will need to pull the linkage bolt all the way out to be able to slip off the spline)

I will say that the service manual I downloaded from the Cafe was indispensable. I only found 1 thing different on my 06C versus the 03S it was written for, that is where the wire-harness is routed. On my 06 it runs all the way up to under the seat and was a royal PITA to get unplugged and pulled from the bike

Once the oil is drained you can pull the Left Side Cover, BE CAREFUL. This cover is Metal, slightly heavy, prolly a little slick with oil and has your Alternator in it.

There are 13 bolts total, with 4 of them being extra long. This picture shows the location of the long bolts

Here is the Left Side Cover freshly removed

You can see the Alternator windings and the ignition timing pickup sensor. This will also give you a better idea why nobody came out with an aftermarked alternator for our scoots

This pic shows what is left in the bike and the starter gear train labled

The Starter Clutch is a 2 piece assembly that is bolted to the backside of the Flywheel, the hub of the starter driven gear fits into the clutch.

The Torque Limiter and idler gear pull out very easily.

Now you need to remove the bolt holding the Flywheel on the tapered shaft.

A special tool is called for in the manual, but I used a BF adjustable wrench to hold the flywheel from turning while I loosened the bolt. The flats on the flywheel are 40mm. Be Careful, this bolt is TIGHT!!!!, over 100 lbs/ft torqued. The wrench can slip off when your applying that much pressure and fly up and almost hit your gas tank (I got very lucky it didn't hit the tank)

Once you pull that bolt, the flywheel is locked onto a tapered shaft so you will need an 8" puller

The flywheel literally exploded off the shaft, it had a major taper-lock going, skeered the chit out of me and I had to go check my shorts after if POPPED off

For me the starter driven gear stayed on the shaft. There is a woodruff key on the shaft, I didn't need to remove this everything came off ok without removing it

***There is a Flat Thrust washer between the Nose of the Driven gear and the back of the Flywheel. Mine was stuck to the back of the Flywheel with oil. Remove this and set aside in a safe place so you don't loose it

When you pull the Driven Gear off the shaft, you can remove and inspect the needle bearing and inner race on the shaft.

Now I took the flywheel assembly over to the bench to remove the clutch assembly. This is where you will need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while you remove the Torx bolts (T40 I think) holding the clutch assembly

Here is the backside of the flywheel and the 2 pieces of the starter clutch

The service manual gives you dimension on the Starter Driven Gear to measure for wear

The Hub O.D. should be bigger than 2.2692"
The Hub I.D. (for needle bearing) should be smaller than 1.736"

After taking my measurements, and everything had plenty of wear left, I decided it had to be the starter clutch and I ordered my parts.

Reassembly is in reverse order.

You will need to apply oil to the clutch components before reassembly, torque for the flywheel Torx bolts is 22 lb/ft. Clean the bolts and use blue loctite before reassembling

Main Flywheel
I put some oil on that thrust washer and stuck it back onto the back of the flywheel before slipping the assembly back onto the taper shaft.

Again using the BF Adjustable wrench you tighten the flywheel bolt to 101 lb/ft. You DO NOT apply loctite to this bolt. The manual actually says to coat the bolt threads and face of the shaft with oil.

Left Case Cover
The Left Case Cover bolts get tightened to 9 lb/ft.

I applied silicone gasket material to the side case after cleaning both the cover face and case mounting faces.

I will let this silicone seal cure for a couple of days since it is COLD here before putting oil back in the bike and testing things.

Here are comparison pics of the Clutch components.

Old Outer Clutch

Notice the wear marks

New Outer Clutch

Old Inner (sprag) Clutch

You see some wear here too

New Inner (sprag) Clutch

1 comment:

  1. this is what i need for my suzuki dr 650 RSE from 1992, i am from romania and i can't find only whith all asembly...tell me please a site from wear i can buy onli this piece. thank you.