max

Wednesday

Fuel Injector Replacing Jeep Grand Cherokee

How to Replace/ Change Fuel Injectors


Step by step procedure to replace Fuel Injectors on Jeep Grand Cherokee

This procedure will work on Jeep Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, 1999 to 2005

Fuel Injectors


Relieve fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following: 


  • Negative battery cable
  • Air intake tube
  • Fuel injector connectors
  • Fuel line
  • Accelerator cable
  • Cruise control cable, if equipped
  • Transmission cable, if equipped
  • Cable routing bracket
  • Fuel supply manifold with injectors attached
  • Fuel injectors

See below Fuel injector Image for Jeep Cherokee:----
Cherokee Fuel injector

To install:

Install or connect the following: 

  • Fuel injectors, using new O-rings
  • Fuel supply manifold with injectors. Tighten the bolts to 75-125 inch lbs. (8-14 Nm).
  • Cable routing bracket
  • Transmission cable, if equipped
  • Cruise control cable, if equipped
  • Accelerator cable
  • Fuel line
  • Fuel injector connectors
  • Air intake tube
  • Negative battery cable

Start the engine and check for leaks.


These details will help.
Thanks.


I recommend you to go through procedure of How to relieve fuel pressure.


Also i suggest to view :----




Jeep Grand Cherokee Fuel Rail Replacing

How to replace Fuel Rail


The procedure to help get
Fuel Rail (Supply Manifold) & Injectors

Replaced on  Jeep Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, 1999 to 2005

The procedure is absolutely same for all these year car models:-----

  • The fuel system is under constant fuel pressure even with engine off. This pressure must be released before servicing fuel rail.

NOTE
  • The fuel damper is not serviced separately.
See below Fuel rail Image 

jeep fuel rail



The removal/replacing procedure starts here:-----

  1. Remove fuel tank filler tube cap.
  2. Perform Fuel System Pressure Release Procedure.
  3. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
  4. Remove air tube at top of throttle body. 
  5. NOTE
  6. Some engine/vehicles may require removal of air cleaner ducts at throttle body.

  7. Disconnect electrical connectors at all 6 fuel injectors. Push red colored slider away from injector. While pushing slider, depress tab and remove connector from injector. The factory fuel injection wiring harness is numerically tagged (INJ 1, INJ 2, etc.) for injector position identification. If harness is not tagged, note wiring location before removal.
  8. Disconnect fuel supply line latch clip and fuel line at fuel rail.
  9. Disconnect throttle cable at throttle body.
  10. Disconnect speed control cable at throttle body (if equipped).
  11. Disconnect automatic transmission cable at throttle body (if equipped).
  12. Remove cable routing bracket at intake manifold.
  13. If equipped, remove wiring harnesses at injection rail studs by removing nuts.
  14. Clean dirt/debris from each fuel injector at intake manifold.
  15. Remove fuel rail mounting nuts/bolts.
  16. Remove fuel rail by gently rocking until all the fuel injectors are out of intake manifold.

To install:

  1. Clean each injector bore at intake manifold.
  2. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to each injector O-ring. This will aid in installation.
  3. Position tips of all fuel injectors into the corresponding injector bore in intake manifold. Seat injectors into manifold.
  4. Install and tighten fuel rail mounting bolts to 100 +/- 25 inch lbs. (11 +/- 3 Nm).
  5. If equipped, connect wiring harnesses to injection rail studs.
  6. Connect electrical connectors at all fuel injectors. Push connector onto injector and then push and lock red colored slider. Verify connector is locked to injector by lightly tugging on connector.
  7. Connect fuel line and fuel line latch clip to fuel rail.
  8. Install protective cap to pressure test port fitting (if equipped).
  9. Install cable routing bracket to intake manifold.
  10. Connect throttle cable at throttle body.
  11. Connect speed control cable at throttle body (if equipped).
  12. Connect automatic transmission cable at throttle body (if equipped).
  13. Install air tube (or duct) at top of throttle body.
  14. Install fuel tank cap.
  15. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
  16. Start engine and check for fuel leaks.


These details will help.
Thanks.



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How to Relieve Fuel System Pressure on Jeep

Jeep Cherokee Fuel pressure Relieving procedure


Before replacing or disconnecting fuel system assembly parts its advisable to first relieve fuel pressure.


  • Use following procedure if the fuel injector rail is, or is not equipped with a fuel pressure test port.
The procedure starts here:-----

  1. Remove fuel fill cap.
  2. Remove fuel pump relay from Power Distribution Center (PDC). For location of relay, refer to label on underside of PDC cover.
  3. Start and run engine until it stalls.
  4. Attempt restarting engine until it will no longer run.
  5. Turn ignition key to OFF position. 

See below fuel pump details and image :----

fuel tank and fuel pump module


CAUTION
Steps 1, 2, 3 and 4 must be performed to relieve high pressure fuel from within fuel rail. Do not attempt to use following steps to relieve this pressure as excessive fuel will be forced into a cylinder chamber.

  1. Unplug connector from any fuel injector.
  2. Attach one end of a jumper wire with alligator clips (18 gauge or smaller) to either injector terminal.
  3. Connect other end of jumper wire to positive side of battery.
  4. Connect one end of a second jumper wire to remaining injector terminal. 
CAUTION
Powering an injector for more than a few seconds will permanently damage the injector.

  1. Momentarily touch other end of jumper wire to negative terminal of battery for no more than a few seconds.
  2. Place a rag or towel below fuel line quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
  3. Disconnect quick-connect fitting at fuel rail.
  4. Return fuel pump relay to PDC.
  5. One or more Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) may have been stored in PCM memory due to fuel pump relay removal. The DRB scan tool must be used to erase a DTC.

These details will help.
Thanks.

How to replace Fuel Pressure Regulator on Acura Car models?

                                

How to test Fuel Pressure and replace Fuel Pump on Acura Car models?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-test-fuel-pressure-and-replace.html

Chevy Fuel pressure Reliving Procedure

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2012/11/chevy-fuel-pressure.html


Fuel pressure and spark is good but ford escort will not start?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/01/fuel-pressure-and-spark-is-good-but.html


After getting car washed, check engine light is ON and key less entry not working, tried reprogramming. Also car shows fuel pressure?

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/after-getting-car-washedcheck-engine.html


How to change Alternator on Peugeot

Peugeot 1.4 Alternator replacing and Alternator belt removal procedure:


For alternator belt,its not easy task.You need a special tool to tension the belt and release the belt tension.


On some alternator there is manual adjuster and on some there is auto belt adjusting tenstioner.
Some alternators have an adjuster on the bracket - on the bottom that you have to adjust - its like a small bushing to enable you to get the alternator on correctly.



The alternator belt  can be tensioned in 2 ways,
First it has belt tensioner which you have to use a 15mm spanner to release the tension, or some engines use what is called a stretch belt, by this i mean there will be no tensioner on that engine models.
Now to perform these task  there is a special tool to remove and install the belt,which i have mentioned earlier.
It is very hard to adjust accurate belt tension without this tool, it can be done by putting the belt on and turning the engine over using the crankshaft pulley bolt.But that is not very easy.The crankshaft timing setting can get misaligned by these way,if you are not that professional and experienced.



In case of mounting the alternator,

It depends on what type of tensioner you have, ie, manual or auto.
So suppose if its a manual - you simply tighten the tensioner until the belt is tight .

And now in case of auto belt adjuster, its a case of using a spanner on the center nut of the tensioner- apply pressure (hard ) so that the tensioner moves away from the belt - be careful so as not to let go as its under a lot of pressure - and fit the belt... then slowly allow the belt tensioner to come back onto the belt to tension it correctly.

These will fit the belt.

Alternator drive belt routing/fitting diagram

here:-----

The tensioner is marked with T in the diagram shown below:----

drive belt routing




To remove the alternator the procedure is as follows:-----

-First disconnect battery cable (make sure you have the radio code, if radio is fitted with antitheft).

Remove :

  • The RH front road wheel
  • The mud shield
  • Then the tensionner's release bolt
  • Then slacken the tensionner,then remove the belt
  • After that unclamp the coolant expansion tank and move aside
  • Without forget remove the alternator's electrical connectors
  • Once the connectors are out,remove the alternator's rear mountings
  • Now these will let you lift the remove the alternator out.
  • Refit in reverse order.For installing new alternator.
Once the mounts are removed, the alternator can be removed towards the wheel, through the mudshield location.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Tuesday

2004 Highlander cigarette lighter fuse

Location of cigarette lighter fuse on Toyota Highlander



For toyota  Highlander there are  two fuse boxes one under dash and other is underhood in the engine compartment.

the cig lighter fuse is located in dash fuse panel.
Fuse box is exactly behind the pocket door.There is a small Door on the left side that Pulls open on the driver sided about knee level.
Open the Door and Pull the pocket door up and you will have access to the fuses behind it.

The cig lighter fuse is  15 amp fuse # number 23 or the 15 amp fuse on the left sided 2nd down .
If your vehicle have two cig lighter units,like most highlanders have then Be sure the check the other 15amp fuse which is below that. That is for the Other cigarette type plug on the passenger side.
If the fuses are not blown,then check voltage at fuse slot with vehicle ON.You should get 12 volt there.These confirms that fuse or fuse slot is not the issue for cig lighter problem and cig lighter wiring from fuse slot to lighter is actual issue or its faulty cigarette lighter itself.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Thursday

How to remove overhead console

OVERHEAD CONSOLE REMOVAL ON FORD VEHICLES


Ford F150 vehicle console removal




There is a screw that needs to be removed in the front and with the second compartment open(where garage door opener would go) to the left and right there are tabs with locking clips that hold the rear.
You can use a screw driver, pry and pop the tabs free. They can break so be careful.

See the overhead console removal diagram image shown below:---

overhead console removal




One more thing,the screws are hidden under the console and not seen easily.
You have to pull  the console down.


the console only have the LED (temp, etc), sunroof control and reading lights. No screws visible externally.

View the exploded view image on sunroof console removal

overhead console ford



The rear tabs are hidden inside to access the tabs,the procedure is Pull the overhead console straight down at the windshield and slide the overhead console towards the front of the vehicle to dislocate the rear retaining tabs.

See the diagram shown below:----

sunroof removal



These details will help.
Thanks.


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FOR MORE HELP GO TO: ---

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Lincoln Underhood components

Engine compartment parts diagram for Lincoln


Underhood there are components like motors,sensors,switch connections,sensors,valve,turn signal lamp and headlight lamp/assembly.

The under hood component diagram is as follows:------

underhood components





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How to replace Light control module

Lincoln Towncar Light Control Module replacing procedure


Light control module also known as LCM.

LCM is located under dash behind the Left Hand side of Instrument cluster panel.

First view the Instrument panel components location diagram

IP dash components




LCM REMOVAL Procedure is as follows:-------

CAUTION: Prior to removal of module, it is necessary to upload module configuration information to New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester. This information needs to be downloaded into the new module once installed.
Disconnect the battery ground cable.
CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.

light control module




Remove the LH instrument panel lower insulator.
1 Remove the pin-type retainers.
2 Disconnect the courtesy lamp.
3 Remove the LH instrument panel insulator.




instrument panel module







Position the LCM aside.
1 Remove the locking tab.
2 Release the locking tab.
3 Position the LCM aside.


LCM under dash




1) Disconnect the electrical connectors.Please remove the connectors slowly,dont just pull LCM out,without disconnecting the connectors.

2) Remove the LCM.

LCM INSTALLATION Procedure is as follows:----

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

CAUTION: Once the new module is installed, it is necessary to download the module configuration information from New Generation STAR (NGS) Tester into the new module.

NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns it adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be drive 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.That is normal procedure.


These details will help.

Thanks.

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Tuesday

Mitsubishi will not start

Replaced all possible parts,but still the vehicle will not start.

Its a Mitsubishi eclipse GST 1998 Year model vehicle.

The parts replaced are starter,the IAc valve,the Battery,Fuel filter and Fuel pump.

Timing belt and Heater core were replaced last year.

First of all i will say, never ever replace any part in car,without confirming the problem.

First diagnose the problem,then confirm the problem then replace the parts.

On some cases high factory scantool are required,where basic troubleshooting is not helping.

The Starter starts but engine will not start

TRY THESE TEST:---

If you pull a plug wire and a spark plug and crank the engine with the spark plug grounded, does the plug spark?

There are in total 4 sparks plugs on these vehicle.Check spark on spark plugs.
You should get spark on all plugs.

If two spark plugs are having spark and other two are not having then it is issue with timing belt.

The purpose of the checking for spark on the plugs is to determine what is preventing the engine from running. identifying that you have two cylinders that are not firing..... the reason we go through these procedures is to determine what is wrong so we don't buy things we don't need.


Have you verified your belt timing? If the belt timing is incorrect it will kill the spark on two cylinders.


Now if you have spark on two cylinders. This can only mean a handful of things.

Incorrect belt timing
Faulty Cam or Crank sensors
Faulty coil
Faulty Igniter
Faulty computer.

If the vehicle is running sometimes and not othertime,then the belt timing probably isn't it, but would be the next thing to check.
From there the cam and crank sensors via oscilloscope to make sure they have good and clean waveforms.
With those checked out, then you would need to check signal from the igniter to the coils (if present on both, the coil is bad). If there is only one signal from the igniter, you would check signal from the computer (if both present, the igniter is bad). If the belt timing is correct, the sensors check out OK and you only have one driver working from the computer, the computer is bad.The Engine control module controls all electrical working of vehicle.If all other possibilities checked ok,then Engine module / computer needs to be inspected and replaced.

It will not likely go that far though; more than likely you will find a sensor at fault or a failing coil or igniter.
Have the vehicle checked out by your mechanic testing the items I listed in the order and it should deliver you right to your problem.However going further requires some special tools outside the scope of this medium. This is why I provided you with exact steps to determine what is wrong so you can have it checked out by someone with a full scan tool and oscilloscope.

These details will help.
Thanks.


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Mitsubishi Diamante: Factory Security Alarm will not go Off

Alarm started honking and now will not go OFF

Is there any way to disconnect the Alarm from vehicle.

Practically  there is no way to disconnect the alarm on this car effectively, as the majority of the alarm is located in the ETACS module which controls numerous other devices (locks, clock, wipers, turn signals....about anything that requires timing).

There is no permanent way to disconnect the alarm from your Mitsubishi vehicle.
If you cut the alarm wires the alarm will stop honking.But many other features will also stop,which are directly or indirectly connected to alarm system.

But there are few methods to disarm the Alarm without cutting or any modification.First try that safety methods:----


There are two ways to turn off the alarm in the event of the fob being missing.
1) First method is of  using the key to unlock the doors while the alarm is going off. That is the standard method for disarming, however will not work if the key switches are worn out, etc.

2) The second method is only endorsed as a last resort method if there is no fob and the key disarm is not working, as it can pop a fuse.
These method is small procedure to start and end with.

To do the second method, disconnect the negative battery cable, insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON. Reconnect the negative battery terminal. This should power the car up with the alarm disabled.

If this method does not work, unless you have an add-on aftermarket alarm there is a high probability that something is wrong with the wiring.
The wiring from ETACS module has to be checked.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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Mitsubishi wave spring issue


Mitsubishi switched to a stronger wave spring on the Endeavors


Need to buy second hand Mitsubishi Endeavor vehicle, require suggestions from Garage Experts:----


Many old model Mitsubishi vehicles have noticed the problem with weaker wave springs.


The wave spring issue is a trait to the 40/50 series transmission, and Mitsubishi hasn't made a new part per se, only slight non-dated adjustments.... no actual "new part" that won't fail.

The wave spring breaking has been happening since 1998, but has progressively gotten less common as years go on. The last broken wave spring I ran into was a 2004 year vehicle.
Lots of Wave spring related complaints were noticed in rear 2004 for Mitsubishi vehicle.

But if you clearly notice then it seems that wave spring in all was not the culprit,
Ultimately it has as much to do with how the transmission is treated as it does with the construction of the wave spring at this point. If the transmission is getting slammed into gears day in day out, it will fatigue the spring and eventually cause it to fail by no fault of the spring itself.


As you have asked the details specially for Endeavor, i will shed some light in that way,there is a far more serious issue when dealing with Endeavor transmissions and that is loosening drive nuts inside the transmission.

As per our garage repair experience i will say, On 2004, 2005 and early 2006 Endeavors a drive nut inside the transmission was either improperly tightened or not notched properly to lock it in place, and over the course of 100,000 miles (give or take 15) this nut will begin backing off. It will be mostly unnoticeable until the nut begins impacting the planetary set, grinding away at it. Eventually the planet gears will have their axle shafts worn down, allowing the shim washers to slip out and debris float around the transmission, effectively destroying it (making it far too expensive to consider fixing due to the large number of parts that can not be cleaned and need to be replaced).

So before buying the Endeavor,just consider the year which your buying,the latest newer model are not facing or having any noticeable problem,all depends on driving habits of the driver.How well the vehicle is maintained and serviced.

As per our personal garage experience with these model Mitsubishi vehicles i suggest going for 2011 year vehicle.


With a 2011 there is no issue or  worry at all..But for 2004 to 2007 the only big concern is the potential mileage and service history etc.
From 2009 on you should be fine in that respect as long as you stay at lower mileages. 2009/2010 made several improvements with regard to materials and assembly in some of the areas that were known complaint areas (squeaky/creaky doors, etc).Many older model vehicles have issue with doors making squeaking noise.

Very Important Note as per our Garage repair experience:-----
If you get into something over 60,000 miles, be prepared to have a timing belt replacement right off the bat that will add to your cost if there is no service history. Technically mid-year 2008 they switched to a 105k interval, however nothing changed between the engine design or belt material, etc, to justify the extra time length, so I typically still recommend it be done at 60k if possible, or at least not to run it to 105k.

Back on the transmission bit, if the mileage is over 60K you will want to see a service history showing transmission flushes with Mitsubishi fluid.... we really recommend it be flushed every 30k, but every 60k is pretty much bare minimum for not having any long term side effects. This transmission will 'eat' fluid.... it is not a transmission where you can just ignore the fluid for 100K miles or you will have side effects (slipping, torque shudder, etc).
So before getting into second hand vehicle,just confirm all its previous service history. What parts are still under warranty and what parts are near to its death.
If the vehicle is cleared from all its previous issues,then regularly maintaining the vehicle is a key to long run.

These details will help.
Thanks.



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2007 Ford Expedition: How to shift car in neutral with Dead Battery

With dead battery is is possible to shift vehicle in neutral.

Yes its possible,the details are as follows :----


First make sure your key is turned On (even though the battery is dead)

Insert the key in ignition and turn it ON.
Now all depends on which shifter your vehicles has floor shifter or column shifter.
I will mention procedure for both shifter.

Floor Shifter:---

There will be a small cover on the upper right corner of the shift panel. Remove this cover with a pick and use the pick or similar tool to push the button below it and hold it while you shift out of Park:
See the image below showing its detail:---
Shifter ford
Floor shifter


Column Shifter:---


On the column shifter, you will have a similar panel on the column cover to remove, and underneath will be a button to slide to release the interlock. Slide the button over and hold it while moving the shifter out of Park:
See the image shown below showing its detail:---
Ford gear shift

Also view these:---
shifting in neutral
The arrow pointing the lock to be disengaged



These details will help.
Thanks.


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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/02/car-will-not-move-when-in-gear.html

Mercedes-Benz transmission sticks in first gear?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/mercedes-benz-transmission-sticks-in.html

Mercedes Benz not engaging in first gear?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/mercedes-benz-not-engaging-in-first.html

Chrysler PT Cruiser only goes in First gear?

                           
Car is stuck in park and the shift will not move?
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/08/car-is-stuck-in-park-and-shift-will-not.html