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Jeep Grand Cherokee SE Engine Swap

Engine 16 tooth ring or the 32 tooth ring Engine model


Jeep Cherokee Engine Swap

Bellhousing bolts

United States 2004 Jeep Cherokee


Q: Replacement Engine For 04 grand Cherokee that has a bad 4.7 engine.
16 tooth engine or 32 tooth engine?

A: Engine details:

16 Tooth Crank Tone Wheel 

If the replacement engine comes from a 2004 or older WJ body style Grand Cherokee then it will have a 16 tooth crank tone wheel for sure. The 16 tooth tone wheel was used with the JTEC type engine controller (PCM), which was the only one used on the WJ.


32 Tooth Crank Tone Wheel

The 2002 and newer Durango and Dakota was the start of the NGC PCM, which used the 32 tooth tone wheel. These engines will physically fit in the WJ and are externally the same, but will have a different crank tone wheel and won't run. If there is a question about what year or vehicle the replacement comes from then you can remove the crank sensor and physically look at the tone wheel and you'll have no question which engine you have.

Bell Housing Bolts:

Removing bellhousing bolts:

The bellhousing bolts is not very difficult to remove with right tools. You can get them all from the bottom, but to get to the top ones you'd have to drop the trans crossmember and drop the back of the trans to lower it far enough to access the top bolts. Either way the bolts are all best accessed using a long extension and swivel socket.

Another way to get at the top bolts is pull the intake, which there is a good chance you'll want to do anyway when pulling the engine. With the intake out of the way then you can access the bolts from the top with a wrench (Gear Wrench works best).


Regarding Engine Swap:

You can also use the different engines by swapping the tone wheel but it's labor intensive. Swapping the cam sensor tone wheel isn't bad, you just have to remove the right valve cover, wedge the timing chain and replace the cam sprocket.

Crank Tone Wheel Removal:

The crank tone wheel is more of a big deal though. It's a one piece design that goes over the end of the crankshaft to remove and install it, so to swap it out you'd have to remove the bed-plate and the crankshaft. It's certainly doable if you can't find the correct year engine or you find a great deal on a low mileage newer engine or something like that, but it's more work than you may want to get into.

This details will help.
Thanks.


Dodge Ram 3500 4wd Brake Pressure Bleeding Problem

Brake Line Pressure Not Getting Bleed

Reverse bleed the system

Dodge Brake Line Pressure

Brake line bleeding

Brake fluid will not go in thru bleeder

Air in brake line

Q: Brake Bleeding Problem on 2001 Dodge Ram 3500.
United States 2001 Dodge Ram vehicle.
New bleeders and new wheel cylinders have been installed,but still same problem.
Brake line will not get bleed.


A:  There are few possibilities to be checked.

Blocked Bleeders:

If the fluid won't go in through the bleeders then most likely they are simply plugged. It's very much possible for the bleeders to be plugged on older vehicles such as this. There are small orifices in the bleeder screws that the fluid has to pass through and they could be plugged with debris or rust. Try breaking the lines loose right at the wheel cylinders or calipers, whichever you are trying to bleed, and see if fluid will come out when trying to bleed. If not then it's a pretty sure thing that the bleeder screws are plugged and will need to be replaced.


Other Things To Try:

Open the line where it goes into the rear brake hose at the frame and see if fluid will flow out of it there. You may have an internally collapsed hose that is preventing flow.

If no pedal pressure
Caliper Issue:

Did this start after the calipers were replaced?

  • If the pedal was fine before the calipers were replaced and is now soft then most likely you have the left and right calipers on the wrong sides of the truck. 

  • If the calipers were installed on the wrong sides then the bleeder screws will be below where the lines attach and it will prevent you from bleeding the air from the calipers. 

  • Inspect both calipers and see if the bleeders are above or below the banjo bolts that attach the lines. The bleeders need to be above the lines, if one is below then you have a wrong caliper, if both of them are below then you just got them switch around when installing them.
This details will help.
Thanks.


Jeep Grand Cherokee TEMP INSIDE THE CAR IS ALWAYS WARM

Blower motor power module 

Italy 2004 Jeep Cherokee

A/C very weak
Temperature very warm inside car
Blower motor resistor issue
Blower motor module not working
Jeep Cherokee A/c Problem

Q: Grand Cherokee Overland HO with problem of A/C blower resistor. Changed the resistor with a new kit of resistor and cables. BUT THE A/C NOW VERY WEAK AND THE TEMP INSIDE THE CAR IS ALWAYS WARM. Car repair tech cut the cables and used a new cables kit. They are unable to restore the original cables. Where to buy the original cable set, it is not available from Mopar.


A: First Try The basics To Confirm the Issue:

  • The blower motor resistor controls the speed that the fan blows at..... ie low speed, medium speed or high speed. The resistor does not, however, control the actual temperature of the air that it blows.
  • If the fan speeds are normal, and  temperature inside the vehicle is warm, then you will need to look at the air conditioning system as a likely cause. 
Possibilities are low Freon level will result in higher than expected temperatures when the a/c is turned on.
 

First make sure you confirm  Freon level checked, and adding more if needed. A small leak in the system can allow the Freon to gradually leak out so it is not unusual to have the system topped up now and again until the source of the leak can be determined.


But if all basics checked OK,then 

It's actually a blower motor power module issue rather than a blower motor resistor. A resistor is used on a manual control system, a power module is used on an automatic system. The power module was introduced between the minivan and older Grand Cherokees, and I'm sure this is the package you had installed.
 
The reason the blower motor is running slowly can be due to different design power module used or it can be wiring issue. Due to the wiring issue air volume gets low and this is because the blower motor is spinning backward.So first inspect wiring.


Blower Motor Power Module Wiring:

Take a look at the two wire jumper that goes between the power module and the blower motor. Unplug it from one end or the other and then remove the lock wedge from the center of the connector. 

Note the position of each wire and then use a small pick to release the lock tab on each of the terminals and slide the terminals out of the connector. Swap the terminal position, ending up with each wire in the opposite location as it was originally.
 
Install the lock wedge and plug the connector back in, your blower motor will be back to normal.

This will help.
Thanks.

1995 Dodge Caravan engine Rattle Noise

Timing Chain Rattle Noise 

United states dodge caravan vehicle 

Q: 1995 Dodge engine 3.3L which sounds and runs good until the engine warms up.Then the rattle develops as if one of the lifters has bled down.I have checked rods and mains from bottom end -all okay .Oil pressure good.
Rattle noise is bad when engine idling but clears up when engine runs faster .


A: 
Timing Chain Noise 
As per description of the noise being a rattle indicates towards timing chain noise. The timing chain doesn't have a tensioner and when it stretches it will make a sort of random rattling noise at the front of the engine and it is usually worse at idle when hot. If the noise seems to be coming from the front of the engine and is a random rattle type noise then there is a good chance it is the timing chain.

Lifter Noise 
If you had a single lifter making noise it would be a tick. If you're hearing a singular tick from the top of the engine then it's very likely that you have one bad lifter. Since the noise happens when the engine is hot you won't likely be able to tell anything when the engine is disassembled and cooled off. If you have what sounds like a single lifter ticking and you don't see any damage to pushrods, rocker arms or valvesprings thenits suggested replacing the lifters.