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Step by step compressor removal procedure on VW jetta?

Replacing compressor needs alternator, drive belts power steering pump, disassembly too.Click the link below

Begin by disconnecting the ground cable from the negative battery terminal. Locate the air-conditioner compressor---it will usually be mounted somewhere on the side of the engine. Loosen the accessory drive belt and remove it. Label and disconnect all of the electrical connections from the compressor. Disconnect the refrigerant hose manifold from the back of the compressor and plug the hoses to prevent dirt, water or grease from entering the lines. Loosen the bolts that connect the compressor to the engine. Carefully study how the compressor is mounted and remove the hardest to reach bolts first. Lift the compressor out of the engine bay.

To get dis-assembly instructions for this prats:---

FOR :---

How to replace compressor on 2002 VW jetta ?

Click the link below:----


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FOR

How to remove alternator on 2002 VW jetta?

Click the link below:--
http://howtobyme.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-remove-alternator-on-2002-vw.html
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FOR :--

How to remove Drive Belts on 2002 VW jetta?

Click the link below:---

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FOR

How to remove Power Steering Pump on 2002 VW jetta?

Click the link below:--
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FOR

How to remove Steering Wheel on 2002 VW jetta?

Click the link below:---



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First, put the car up on jack stands in the front and remove the passenger side wheel, skid plate, and side skirt. You will see the compressor right at the bottom of the front of the engine:

Remove the serpentine belt by using a crescent wrench on the tensioner and just slip the belt off. Put it up out of the way and try not to let it come of the other pulleys.

Next, if there is charge in the system, make sure it's evacuated and then use the 6mm hex key to remove the refrigerant lines from the rear:


Place the hoses down on the ground so that any contaminated oil can drip out. I placed a wrench on them to hold them down. There was some oil, but not too much. You may see pieces of slivered metal in the oil. I also ran a bit of the new refrigerant through the suction port to flush out at least that line. If you use the enviro-safe refrigerant, you don't have to feel guilty about this.

Next, remove the electrical connector and use the 17mm socket to loosen the 2 bolts holding the compressor on (11:00 and 2:00

Mine was in very tight and took some prying to get out, even after the bolts were removed. Just make sure not to drop it on your head. Save the bolts to re-use.

Next, remove the receiver-drier. This is located on the passenger side of the radiator.

In order to remove it easily, remove the screw holding the refrigerant line on top of where you will be working:

Next, gently move the refrigerant line from which you just removed the screw. It's flexible enough to move without breaking if you are careful. Then use the 6mm hex key to remove the refrigerant line from the top of the receiver drier. Get under the car and use the 6mm hex to remove the refrigerant line from the bottom. The top line was on very tight and connects to the condensor, so be very careful not to break it. Finally, use the 5 mm hex key to remove the hex bolt retaining the receiver-drier. You can then slip 1/2 of the holder out of a slot toward the front of the car.

Install the new receiver in the openingsame as the one you removed. The receiver/dryer goes in welded side up, at least in the replacement units...just check as the bottom line has three holes needed and the top just two:


slide the holder back together and reinstall the 5mm hex nut, but do not fully tighten yet. Remove the old o-rings from the refrigerant lines and replace with the appropriate size. Slide the receiver-drier up in the holder and align the opening with the connection to the condenser, then reinstall the 6mm hex nut into the top thread. Once it starts getting hard to turn, go ahead and fully tighten the retaining band with the 5mm hex, after you make sure it's up high enough in the slot. This will prevent you from torquing (and breaking) the condenser. The 6mm hex must be fully tightened so there is no gap between the refrigerant line and the top of the receiver. Next, reinstall the bottom refrigerant line after you replace the o-ring. You are ready to install the new compressor.

Locate the 17mm bolts and install the new compressor using them.

Reinstall the belt making sure it's on all the pulleys correctly. Next remove the factory plugs using the 6mm hex. Replace the o-rings on the refrigerant lines and then install to the back of the compressor. Make sure there is a nice tight fit to the machined metal surface. In my car, the plug was a different style, an so I had to reuse the connector from the old compressor. If you have to do this, I recommend soldering the wires and then using heat shrink tubing:


Slide the wire harness into its metal holder and then connect it.

Next, you may replace the expansion valve. It is located on the firewall in front of the passenger seat, and covered with a plastic insulator. The insulator unsnaps from the passenger side and has a hinge on the driver side.

Using the 5mm hex, remove the first bolt holding the aluminum retaining clip. Carefully slide the hoses out of the valve and replace the o-rings.

Use the 4mm hex to remove the other two hex nuts and then slide the valve off. Replace the o-rings. Here is the old and the new valve with the 4mm hex bolts.

Reinstall the new valve using the 4mm hexes first, then reinstall the aluminum retaining clip and the refrigerant lines. Replace the insulator. It only fits one way. Now, you are ready to test the system. Follow the directions with your gauge and install it to a can of oil charge. With the car off, snap the quick-connect onto the low side refrigerant line, located right near the receiver-drier. It has a black cap on it:

Open the valve on the can and let a little refrigerant into the system, then close the valve on the can. Note the pressure reading and wait 5 minutes. Make sure the pressure doesn't drop, although it may go up. If it goes down, you have a leak. Luckily, I did not. If there are no leaks, allow the oil charge into the system by turning the can upside-down. Now, get another can of refrigerant, pierce the top, and install to the lowside connector. Start the car and turn on the AC.

Open the can of ec-12a refrigerant and allow it into the system, slowly. Turn the can upside down, but not all at once - a little bit at a time. It will take the whole can. Check your pressure. Mine was about 35 psi.

It will probably take about another 3-4 ozs from a second can. DO NOT use the whole second can. It is too much.

Get inside the car and check your temp at the outlet on recirc mode.

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