passenger sliding door sticks and groans on toyota sienna?

This problem is common with Toyota sienna cars.------------

Please read this comments,This are the comments of other users facing the same problem with toyota sienna sliding doors:---

I had a sliding door problem with my 2008 Sienna. After reading about everyone's problems, I was nervous to take it in. They told me the frame was bent and since I was out of warranty in years but within the warranty in miles, it would be my responsibility to pay for the cost of repairs. The service advisor at the dealership suggested that I call Toyota Corp and state my case. I did just that. I then had to take it back to the dealership so they could inspect the car to make sure the problem wasn't related to an accident. After inspecting the paint and I don't know what else, they accepted responsibility for a fault part and agreed to fix the problem at no charge to us and even provided a rental car. All of this took approx a week. But it was well worth it. I just wanted to advise everyone who has an issue to contact Corp and push your case. It worked for me! Thank you Toyota!----------------

Thanks for sharing your positive experience with Toyota!!! I hope everyone with this problem calls Toyota making them call a recall. Thanks again, I am happy for you.

Finally fixed the problem with my door. took the advice in post 321 and that did the trick. cost was about $110 for the part and about two hours of my time. If I had to do it again I could easily cut the time in half.

Not happy that it broke in the first place, but at least the problem is solved.

But what is post 321, please mention,
I have this same problem on my 2007 toyota sienna.

Ok, this is post 321:---
Read as follows:---

The problem as familymandan surmized was related to the door latches not releasing.

Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)

I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.

Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.

Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.

All is working great now.

WOW what a help, but i got it resolved, at my local toyota dealer, they first insisted, that i will be charged $500 for this repair plus $350 as their workman ship service charge.----------
But i convinced them, to understand, that this problem is company defect, and now owners defect, and they talked to their main supervisor and in a 3 day, they gave me a call, to get my car there and i got everything replaced/ repaired for free, with out even charging me service charge,.They did it for me.-------
Hope this helps, some one.----------- My slogan for this repair is never give up, fight for your right.-------

Good to hear that you got it repaired for free.But in my case, i have to sped dollars to get this sliding door problem replaced:---
My 2004 Sienna power sliding door cable snapped today. Its a good thing I came here and read all these post with the same problems for I will and cannot afford to pay $1500-$2000 to fix it. I did however read that you can cut the cable and use it as a manually door. So I cut the rest of the cable on one end that was snapped. And then cut the other end which was holding the door back from opening all the way. And there is a manual overide button underneath to the left of the steering wheel. And now the door operates like a manual door. No expensive fix, just have to take the hit on resale value when I eventually resell it. Although I don't think that will cost me $2000. The wire was pretty strong though my little wire cutters did not cut it, needed my big cable cutters. I too will send a complaint to NHST, for there is to many cable/door problems I have read here and it should be recalled for safety reasons. I will think twice next time I buy a van/truck that has a electric door opener for eventually that wire will break and most often it will be a expensive fix.


Yes very correct, some are getting there problem solved for free and some fellows like us have to pay, but my one of the fried, he is a car mech, he helped me to solve this problem.
This is what he suggested and we did to resolve the problem:---
After working on a few [Toyota] Sienna vans with the dual power sliding door system, I have found new meaning to the old Toyota sales slogan, "Oh, What A Feeling ... Toyota!"

The Sienna's main system components include a main on/off switch and right and left control switches. There are separate right and left sliding door motors and control units in the rear quarter panels. The motors have internal revolution sensors that produce square-wave signals as the motor moves, and electric clutches that are energized to engage the motor to the drive mechanism. The doors slide forward and backward on their tracks via drive cables. Each door has a lock release actuator motor to pull the door to a latched position and to pop it open.

Each door has two latches, one in the front and one in the rear. The lock release actuators have internal position switches to indicate when the door is in the fully latched and half-latched position. The rear latches have position switches on them as well. The lock release actuators get energized through sliding door contacts when the door is in the latched or half-latched position. These contacts do nothing once the door is opened. During normal operation when the door switch is pushed momentarily, the lock release actuator releases the latches and pops the door open and then the drive motor pulls the door open. With the door open, another push of the button slides the door forward, making contact with the sliding door contacts. Then the release actuator pulls the door into the latched position. It is a lot like a garage door opener; it even stops if it gets jammed and then reverses direction.

The control unit knows it is jammed when it sees the revolution sensor slow down sooner than expected. A common problem is that the doors do not operate after the battery is disconnected. This happens when the control unit loses its memory. The fix is to re-initialize the system. There are technical service bulletins (TSBs) that explain how to re-initialize the system. But if that doesn't work, then what next?

I took a call recently on a 2001 Toyota Sienna that would not re-initialize on one side. The door would open but that was it. When the button was pushed to close, it would move a couple of inches at a time and then would lock up and quit working. If battery power was disconnected, it would reset but it would still only open and then the warning light would remain illuminated. The tech tried unsuccessfully to retrieve a code; the light just stayed illuminated. At this point, a flow chart directed us to replace the control unit, but something didn't seem right about that.

We decided to check pin voltages at the control unit to verify the inputs were all correct; however, the factory pin voltage chart was incomplete. Most of the inputs are open or closed switches to ground that have a reference voltage with the switch open, and zero volts with the switch closed. The control switch input, power and ground were good but there was only one switch for both open and close - we expected two. Question: How does the control unit know if the door needs to be opened or closed with only one control switch and nothing to tell the control unit that the door is open? Answer: This is the reason it has to be initialized.

Why won't this one initialize? The first step of the initialization process is to push the button to open the door, wait three seconds, and then push the button again to close the door. Though this process opened the door, it wouldn't close it. It was as if the control unit didn't know the door was open. I asked the tech to check the revolution sensor, thinking that the control unit didn't sense the motor turning but found it had a good square-wave signal while the door was opening.

The rear latch switch was the main input to indicate the door was opening. The pin voltage chart didn't indicate what the latch switch should do, but a TSB I found indicated that the switch should pulse to ground twice as the door pops open and again when it latches shut. This switch did not change at all - it just stayed at reference voltage when the door popped open. Aha! The sliding door contacts must have baby formula on them! The tech checked, but they were clean.

The fix was the rear latch switch itself. After cleaning the rear latch assembly with some contact cleaner and exercising the latch several times, the switch started pulsing to ground. With the rear latch switch operating, we tried the initialization procedure again and it worked this time. That was all it took - simply cleaning a micro switch on the rear door latch; we didn't even have to take the door panel off.

If you run across a similar problem, save some time and check the rear latch switch first.


Me too faced this same problem,

Just purchased a 2011 Sienna on Saturday (12/4) and the sliding doors started sticking on Tuesday (12/7). We took the van to the dealer and, after 3 hours of standing around and shrugging their shoulders, we were told that this is a known problem and that Toyota does not yet have a fix. I'm not getting the groaning or other noises that some seem to have, but a quick pull of the handle locks up the door (after sliding about 1"). I can then shove the door back into the closed position and the door will open just fine with the remote. Told the dealer that I wanted to bring the car back and I was told that, "it doesn't work that way."


My passenger side is making the popping sound ( not the drivers side), but the door always works. It must be an alignment thing. The door only pops when you manually pull the handle, when you use the remote there is no pop. So I think long term It will be a Toyota TSB ( Technical Service Bulletin ) but we have to complain if we have the problem. Please everybody who has this problem go on record with the dealer before 3 years 36 k miles. I have 3,000 miles on my car already.


mine is doing the same thing, it "pops" when opening it by pulling the door handle manually.. however, when using the remote control the "popping" goes away.
im just gonna tell my wife to use the remote all the time if possible...


I went to my dealership a month ago and told them about that same popping noise on the sliding doors. The service manager told me a TSB had already been issued but that there was no fix yet. Also most people don't seem to complain about that problem, which would indicate only some cars have it... I agree with you it's just a noise and as long as the doors open I don't really care. Just don't let go of the handle too fast and there will be no noise anyway.

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